KIM COOK
\nAssociated Press<\/p>\n
Cast iron, once a common material for pots and pans, has tended in recent years to be used most visibly by either pro chefs or campers. Now it\u2019s trending again in this fall\u2019s kitchenware product previews.<\/p>\n
Options range from basic skillets to grill pans to pots both diminutive (for sauces) and expansive (for stews and soups).<\/p>\n
Chef Kevin Korman is about to open his new restaurant, Whitebird, in the Edwin Hotel in Chattanooga, Tennessee. On his menu: fondue, baked eggs and a savory Dutch pancake, all prepared using cast iron pans.<\/p>\n
\u201cOur cuisine is defined as Progressive Appalachian,\u201d Korman says, \u201cand cast-iron cooking played a large role in the history of Appalachia.\u201d<\/p>\n
The Tennessee Valley is rich in iron ore, so companies like Lodge Cast Iron<\/a> set up home there. Korman will be using Lodge products in his kitchens, but aside from supporting a local maker, the material\u2019s performance is what he cares about.<\/p>\n \u201cNot only does cast iron retain heat better than anything else, the distribution of heat is really what makes it a winner,\u201d Korman says. \u201cEvery part of the pan gives off an equal amount, so you don\u2019t end up with certain areas that burn while others are still waiting to get some color. This was a big consideration when we were developing dishes for the menu.\u201d<\/p>\n Korman recalls meals prepared on cast iron at his grandmother\u2019s house, and he has carried on the tradition with his own family.<\/p>\n \u201cI have several sizes that I use daily at home for just about everything,\u201d he says. \u201cBoth of my daughters love to help me cook, so I hope to hand the pans down to them as they get older.\u201d<\/p>\n Beyond durability, cast iron\u2019s big selling point is the heat retention that Korman mentioned. But bear in mind that it doesn\u2019t heat evenly initially, so always let the pan come to the needed temperature on the burner before adding ingredients. That way, you\u2019ll get a nice crisp sear and a consistent cook with your cast iron.<\/p>\n New finishing methods are improving the wearability and performance of cast iron. The Museum of Modern Art\u2019s gift shop<\/a> has a cast-iron item this season: the Railway Dutch Oven, made in Holland out of recycled iron railway ties. A built-in thermometer helps monitor cooking progress, and the tool can be used stovetop or oven.<\/p>\n Williams-Sonoma<\/a> stocks the French brand Staub: There\u2019s a red or blue-enameled two-handled skillet that goes nicely from stovetop or oven to table, and a glass-lidded braiser in black, grenadine or sapphire. Also at the retailer: a little iron saucepot with a platform base, designed to use on grills. It comes with a silicone-handled, mop-headed basting brush for glazing barbecued foods.<\/p>\n Seasoning is key to optimizing cast iron\u2019s performance; it helps \u201ccure\u201d the iron so food doesn\u2019t stick, and over time helps impart layers of flavor.<\/p>\n To season a new pan yourself, lightly wash it as directed, then add a tablespoon of oil and massage it thoroughly into the iron, wiping any excess with a paper towel. Place the pan in an oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit and let it \u201cbake\u201d for about an hour. Remove and wipe off any excess oil before using or storing.<\/p>\n You can buy pre-seasoned pans, which just need a little refresh once in a while.<\/p>\n Williams-Sonoma, Sur La Table<\/a> and Crate & Barrel<\/a> all carry several of Lodge\u2019s pre-seasoned cast-iron pieces.<\/p>\n But it\u2019s still a good idea to refresh the seasoning if you use your pans often. It can even be done stovetop: Heat the pan until it\u2019s hot, swab some oil into it, then let it cool.<\/p>\n While some people prefer not to use soap and water to clean cast iron, thinking it removes the oil coating, Serious Eats\u2019<\/a> chief culinary consultant Kenji Lopez-Alt says it\u2019s fine to do so.<\/p>\n \u201cThe one thing you shouldn\u2019t do? Let it soak in the sink,\u201d he says. \u201cTry to minimize the time it takes from when you start cleaning to when you dry and re-season your pan.\u201d<\/p>\n ngg_shortcode_0_placeholder
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\nToday, makers like Finex<\/a> in Portland, Oregon smooth and polish the pans\u2019 interiors so that eggs and sauces don\u2019t stick. An ergonomically designed, coiled-spring, wrapped-steel handle stays cooler than traditional handles, and the skillets are octagonal, making pouring and stirring easier. Cast-iron lids provide a flavor seal for steaming, simmering and braising.<\/p>\n